【50摄影大师介绍】之十, 伊文·潘 Irving Penn

华翰斋 · 2010-10-21 08:50:35Z

【50摄影大师介绍】之十, 伊文·潘 Irving Penn简介

来源: 华翰斋于 2010-10-21 08:50:35 [档案] [博客] [旧帖] [给我悄悄话] 阅读数 : (12806 bytes)

本帖于 2010-10-21 09:02:47 时间, 由普通用户华翰斋编辑

50 Masters of Photography (10) --- Irving Penn

Irving Penn (1917 - 2009) is American photographer noted for his sophisticated fashion images and incisive portraits.

Penn, the brother of the motion-picture director Arthur Penn, initially intended to become a painter, but at age 26 he took a job designing photographic covers for the fashion magazine Vogue. He began photographing his own ideas for covers and soon established himself as a fashion photographer. In 1950 he married model Lisa Fonssagrives, whom he photographed for much of his best work. His austere fashion images communicated elegance and luxury through compositional refinement and clarity of line rather than through the use of elaborate props and backdrops.

Penn also became an influential portraitist. He photographed a large number of celebrities, engaging each subject to sit for hours and to reveal his or her personality to the camera. In his portraits the subject is usually posed before a bare backdrop and photographed in natural northern light. The resulting images combine simplicity and directness with great formal sophistication. A memorable series of portraits he created in 1950–51, collectively called Small Trades, was of labourers in New York, Paris, and London formally posed in their work clothes and holding the tools of their trade. This project eventually extended to places such as Nepal, New Guinea, Dahomey (now Benin), and Morocco. Penn's later platinum prints of female nudes and of cigarette butts are characterized by the same tonal subtlety, compositional virtuosity, and serenity that mark his fashion photography and portraiture.

Three hundred of Penn's pictures were published in Moments Preserved (1960). His other books include Worlds in a Small Room (1974), a collection of portraits of people he encountered in remote foreign locales, and Passage (1991), a retrospective survey of more than 400 examples of his work in portraiture, fashion, ethnic studies, and still life. In 1996 he donated his archives to the Art Institute of Chicago. The museum organized a traveling retrospective of his work the following year.

中文

本期评论:

艾米莉的幻想世界

"即便是拍摄一块蛋糕，也可以产生艺术。" ─── Irving Penn，摄影师，生于1917年6月16日，美国新泽西，20世纪最伟大的摄影师之一。他一直是《Vogue》杂志的长期特约摄影师，从事时尚摄影。二战期间，当过战地摄影师。是位高产摄影师。他也称得上是首位用白色或灰色色底拍摄人物照的摄影师，能把相中人的个性表露无遗。
"我特别喜欢Irving Penn和Helmut Newton 的视角。对女人而言，如今手术就是一切。而摄影师所做的就是在照片上动手术。"——Gabbana ，D&G品牌创始人之一。

Irving Penn 专业学过设计与绘画，将其美工基础很好的运用在商业广告片中，其特有的静物摆放与布景，简单几样静物的罗列，二维三维的巧妙运用，使读者产生特殊视觉效果。简洁的平面设计，捕抓生活中的几何。Irving Penn独特的思维与创意，通过艺术表现形式，丰富的色彩搭配，准确丰富的传递着商品本身特性，又极具诱惑力。生活中的有形物质，哪怕是垃圾，口香糖，发霉的食品，都能让这位大师的脑细胞急剧分裂，产生艺术冲动，拍出美的不同阶段，即使是衰败霉变的物质，都能产生艺术的质变，甚至会让人联想更多。源于生活，又高于生活的艺术境界。

在Irving Penn的肖像作品中，除了布光，布景，与质感的体现，其人物的定位取景，独特的空间，角度的选取，传达着人物的性格与某种情绪，通过人物局部，以挖掘内在。他的独特创新理念，引领时尚前沿，对美的新定位，运用道具，装饰，甚至是遮掩面部，以表现超越现状的审美艺术。

Irving Penn拍过不同阶层的人物，记录了很多社会底层不同职业，不同生活背景的人物，即便是在他简单的影棚拍摄，也能通过人物自身代表性的服装，道具，以及人物的特有气质，巧妙的交待其生活环境与背景。通过这些形形色色的人物的眼神，仿佛聆听到摄影师与被拍摄者之间的对话，探知人物内心表白。赋予艺术以生命，又回归还原于生活。

附：
	50 摄影大师介绍之一	安塞尔·亚当斯 Ansel Easton Adam
	50 摄影大师介绍之二	爱德华·韦斯顿 Edward Henry Weston
	50 摄影大师介绍之三三	格丽特·伯克-怀特 Margaret Bourke-White
	50 摄影大师介绍之四	盖伦.罗威尔 Galen Rowell
	50 摄影大师介绍之五	朵洛西亚·蓝吉 Dorothea Lange
	50 摄影大师介绍之六	阿尔弗雷德·斯蒂格里茨 Alfred Stieglitz
	50 摄影大师介绍之七	罗伯特·杜瓦诺 Robert Doisneau
	50 摄影大师介绍之八	黛安·阿勃斯 Diane Arbus
	50 摄影大师介绍之九	爱德华·斯泰肯 Edward Steichen
	50 摄影大师介绍之十	伊文·潘 Irving Penn