Under the Milky Way 7: From Estella to Los Arcos

6/4, Day 7，Sunday, from Estella to Los Arcos, 21.4 km
Pilgrims reminded each other the night before that Sunday in Spain observed a different work schedule/store hours, and that many businesses would open late. I prepared two apples, two bananas, one yogurt, 3 slices of ham, and 3 slices of cheese, one dinner roll and some bread sticks. I should be all set for breakfast and lunch today. Of course the backpack got heavier. No need to worry. I bet I would walk and munch along – what a great way to pamper oneself!

It might seem obvious to many that there are numerous references regarding Camino walks – books, Apps, and online information – daily sections/distance to walk (called “stages” by many), road conditions, challenge levels of the hikes, accommodations with contact info, booking links, and brief information about the villages/town/cities to spend the nights in, and so on. Many Youtubers generously share a great deal of resources, tips and their experiences on the Camino. As long as one is willing to dig, there will be useful tips and practical information to be gathered.

7:30am, I started the day late. Morning air was so fresh and soothing. A pilgrim’s day can be so simple – get up, brush and wash, pack, hit the road, basic needs met along the Way, and repeat. 
I saw blue sky and white clouds. Where there was no one around, a poem came to my mind – 

An ordinary being I am,
Treading on the Camino in Spain.
Happen upon Angels here and there,
Pilgrims’ stories and church bell echoes sounding.  

A blacksmith shop was along the Camino, and has been mentioned by many Youtubers. I planned to visit there. Surprisingly, how easy it was to find it, right by the trail side! As a group of us approached the workshop, we saw smoke lingering around part of the workshop, while the artist emerged from behind the counter and welcomed us. He handmade a variety of Camino souvenirs, large and small, to the fine and intricate details. His creative artwork attracted the passersby. Since we all had to carry with us what we put in our backpack, even if we might like something very much, we all took extra caution about what to buy there, how much to buy, or if we should buy anything there at all! With much temptation here, however, it was hard to let it pass.

 

There were not many rolling hills around here, but the vineyards as far as one’s eyes could see would remind us of the red wine at our dinner tables the night before.

Here came another opportunity for us to witness fun and a miracle – the Wine Fountain -- At the turn of a handle switch would come the red wine. In the wine region, what a fun, generous and memorable way this is to share the wine with the passersby! The day when we walked by, however, there was no wine come out as we turned the tap. Bummer! 

Into the woods I went, large tall trees surrounding me. For a few seconds, I fantasized myself being in Alices’ “Wonderland”! How absurd!

Hills hazy in the early dawn, 
Steps light and rapid while trotting on,
The Way, hilly and winding ahead, seems an abyss,
Those of my kind relive the ancient myths.

The sight of honeysuckle, always a reminder, a special thought of someone. Hey, thousands of heartfelt good wishes coming your way. Are you well?

Thank God that the rain held up, and the blue hue in the sky promised at least a brief appearance of the sun, or not? How fortunate NOT to experience the rain at the moment! Otherwise, imagine the road condition – with mud and hills!! My only pair of trailrunners cheered on! They were spared of the ordeal of treading in the puddles and mud. Thank goodness!!

5.7 km away from today’s destination. It shouldn’t take too long.

Field after field, vineyards one after another, wildflowers fragrant and colorful, all cheered us on, over the hills, down to the valley, then back up again… How could I resist the temptation to sing out aloud?!!

Sing, sing a song,
Sing out aloud,
Sing out strong.
Sing of good things, not bad,
Sing of happy, not sad...
Sing, sing a song,
Make it simple to last your whole life long.
Don't worry that it's not good enough for anyone else to hear ---
Just sing,
Sing a song ---

Almost there! Right around the corner! 

We were all welcomed to the village, roosters crowing, goats bleating, dogs barking, the cats rushing to hide, and pigs squealing… The unrehearsed symphony drove our exhaustion away instantly, we were so entertained that we couldn’t resist but to “converse” with them, as if we, like children, came to a petting zoo. 

It was close to 1pm. This handsome young German fellow, a computer engineer on his one-month vacation, had yet to find a bed for tonight. That had to wait, I guess. He seemed to be having fun here!   

The Google Map guided me to my albergue. I zig-zagged in town, and finally got there. In the basement, there were 14 beds. I was the only guest there! The accommodations were extremely limited, and the environment was super humble. Since I would be there alone, I celebrated my good fortune to claim the entire space to be “mine.” In the past few nights, the snoring in the rooms never ceased, this basement room today would be perfect. I quickly washed, laundered, had a snack, and took a nap. By the time I woke up and looked outside, it was getting dark. I missed all kinds of commotions in town. So the yelling and banging sounds were NOT from my dream? How I regret – the nap!! 

Before it got completely dark, my friend Li and I went for a stroll in town. Li was looking for the bus station for a bus ride tomorrow.

I ordered a Tortilla de Patatas and a glass of freshly squeezed orange juice. A simple dinner!

That evening, we ran into a few young men, high-schoolers. They shared with us that they had some experiences in the Festival of Running of the Bulls. They were in one today (the one that I missed)!! How courageous!!  

Keywords for today:

Keep it simple