Sea Pearl of Ukraine: Odesa乌克兰的海上明珠：敖德萨
原文链接：https://medium.com/tourist-in-my-own-country/sea-pearl-of-ukraine-odesa-99e07fae8757
Sea Pearl of Ukraine: Odesa
Waves, cats, and humor
By: Olesia F.
You’ve seen the Ukrainian city that doesn’t exist.
You walked with me through the forests, mountains, and flat lands of Ukraine.
I showed you Kyiv, the capital of my country, and Chernihiv, the soul of the Kyivan Rus’.
Now, it is time to discover our south, with its main sea pearl — a city that russian terrorists claim as their own and relentlessly target with missiles, bombs, and drones.
It’s Odesa, ladies and gentlemen!
Southern Palmyra: One of Odesa’s nicknames, a reference to its cultural importance and beauty, similar to the ancient city of Palmyra.
russia came here during the Russo-Turkish War (see 1787–1792 in the below story) and turned it into an imperial port.
Before that, Odesa was a modest, layered frontier on the Black Sea. Its shores saw Greek traders and later hosted a small Tatar–Ottoman fortress called Khadzhibey, where salt, fishing, and seasonal trade shaped life.
By the 18th century a multiethnic settlement lived in neighborhoods, from the sea and caravan routes: Greeks, Armenians, Moldavians, Jews, Crimean Tatars, and Ukrainian Cossacks.
Some facts about Odesa:
The place that became Odesa bore Ukrainian roots long before the empire came. The Sotnykivska (Kuialnyk) Cossack cemetery near Khadzhibey shows Zaporizhian Cossacks and their heirs living and being buried there before the city’s “founding.”
Even the city’s name was a late-18th-century invention:
In 1795 planners picked “Odesa” with a nod to a classical Greek Odessos, part of an imperial taste for ancient-sounding toponyms rather than a reflection of a single founding people.
The Black Sea here keeps time like an old conductor:
Slow waves and a light make every corner confess a story. People listen to the sea as to an old companion whose mood explains every sudden laugh, bargain, and quarrel.
Sea Pearl of Ukraine: The most popular nickname of Odesa, highlighting the city’s beauty and status as a resort city on the Black Sea.
Bye-Bye, Russians!
There was the monument of Catherine II in Odesa.
(She was the empress of russia who annexed the south of today’s Ukraine, changed all the toponyms there to sound more “russian”, and proclaimed herself the founder of those lands.)
Thanks to her most devoted fan vladimir putin, Ukrainians have stopped turning a blind eye to this historical lie:
Given we do our best to get rid of russian myths about our history and reflect on our colonial past, Catherine has “suddenly” disappered from Odesa a few years ago.
(Oops, does anybody know what happened?)
The flags you can see in the below picture are for our Ukrainian soldiers and officers, fallen when defending Odesa and other cities from russian full-scale invasion.
Another one is the poster I noticed while walking through Derybasivska (the street in the city center), saying (written in black), “Bastard! Bandera* will find you anyway!!”
*Stepan Bandera — a Ukrainian politician, revolutionary, one of the radical and prominent ideologists, practitioners, and theorists of the Ukrainian nationalist movement of the 20th century. russians use his name in their propaganda, when speading the lie about “neo-nazism” and “fascism” in my country.
Odesa’s famous, slightly wicked sense of humor grew from that port-city mix of languages and tradesmen — a sharp, ironic wit celebrated by writers and still spoken of as one of the city’s defining traits.
Humour Capital: One more nickname the city has. Odesa is renowned for its humor, specific accent, and the tradition of satire and comedy.
It’s also called Odesa-mama, for its unique character and welcoming, hospitable nature.
Speaking of cats, by the way:
Who needs Instanbul fluffies if we have dozens of our own in Odesa? Food and water are everywhere outside for them.
Under a horizon, Odesa still argues with the sea…
…And always loses with a grin.
Southern Capital: This nickname emphasizes Odesa’s significance as a major city in southern Ukraine.
The day will come, and I’ll return to Odesa to explore its beauty and character with my closest ones.
乌克兰的海上明珠：敖德萨
海浪、猫咪与幽默
作者：Olesia F.
你已经看过“不存在的乌克兰城市(Zhytomyr) https://medium.com/tourist-in-my-own-country/the-ukrainian-city-that-doesnt-exist-4f8ab415695d ”。
你曾与我一同走过乌克兰的森林、山脉https://medium.com/tourist-in-my-own-country/western-ukraine-welcome-to-yaremche-149fd45fe751和平原https://medium.com/tourist-in-my-own-country/flat-lands-of-the-ukrainian-west-82db38b4ece0 。
我带你领略了我祖国的首都基辅https://medium.com/tourist-in-my-own-country/tourist-in-own-country-my-way-from-work-in-kyiv-d876c218af5c ，以及基辅罗斯的灵魂切尔尼戈夫https://medium.com/tourist-in-my-own-country/old-but-gold-chernihiv-of-ukraine-1738200160f5 。
现在，是时候去探索我们的南方了，那里主要有我们的海上明珠—俄罗斯恐怖分子声称这座城市是他们的，并无情地用导弹、炸弹和无人机袭击她。
女士们先生们，这就是敖德萨！
（图：生活在敖德萨海滩的猫）
南帕尔米拉：敖德萨的别称之一，指的是她在文化上的重要性和美丽，与古代城市帕尔米拉相似。
俄罗斯在俄土战争期间（见下文1787-1792年的故事）来到这里，并将其变成一个帝国港口。
（俄罗斯扩张简史-让俄罗斯再次成为莫斯科维亚？https://olesia-filipenko.medium.com/brief-history-of-russias-expansion-0909b59b15bd ）
在此之前，敖德萨是黑海上一个朴素而充满层次的前沿阵地。它的海岸曾见证希腊贸易商的身影，后来这里曾坐落着一座名为哈吉贝(Khadzhibey)的小型鞑靼-奥斯曼帝国堡垒，在那里盐、渔业和季节性贸易塑造了当地的生活。
到18世纪，来自海上和商队的多民族社区这附近形成了一个定居点：有希腊人、亚美尼亚人、摩尔达维亚人、犹太人、克里米亚鞑靼人和乌克兰哥萨克人。
（图：敖德萨国家学术歌剧院和芭蕾舞剧院）
一些关于敖德萨的事实：
* 早在俄罗斯帝国出现之前，敖德萨所在的这片土地就已扎根了乌克兰文化。在哈吉贝(Khadzhibey) 附近的索特尼基夫斯卡 (Kuialnyk)哥萨克公墓表明，扎波罗热哥萨克人及其后裔在城市“建立”之前就已经居住并埋葬在这里了。
* 甚至这座城市的名字也是 18 世纪末的发明：1795 年，规划者选择了 “敖德萨” (Odesa) 这个名字，这与古典希腊语的奥德索斯 (Odessos) 相呼应，体现了一种对古老地名的帝国品味，而不是对单一开国民族的反映。
* 黑海在这里像一位老指挥家一样凝固了时间：
缓慢的海浪和光线让每个角落都诉说着故事。人们像倾听一位老朋友一样倾听大海，大海的情绪解释了每一次突如其来的欢笑、讨价还价和争吵。
乌克兰海上明珠：敖德萨最受欢迎的昵称，突出了这座城市作为黑海度假胜地的美丽和地位。
再见了，俄罗斯人！
敖德萨曾经有一座凯瑟琳二世的纪念碑。
（她是吞并了今天乌克兰南部的俄罗斯女皇，将那里的所有地名都改成了听起来更“俄罗斯”的名字，并宣称自己是那些土地的创始人。）
多亏了她最忠实的粉丝弗拉基米尔·普京，乌克兰人已经不再对这个历史谎言视而不见了：
鉴于我们尽最大努力摆脱关于我们历史的俄罗斯神话，并反思我们的殖民历史，凯瑟琳几年前“突然”从敖德萨消失了。（哎呀，有人知道发生了什么吗？）
下图中的纪念旗是我们乌克兰士兵和军官的，他们在保卫敖德萨和其他城市免受俄罗斯全面入侵时牺牲。
另一个是我在德里巴索夫斯卡亚街（市中心的一条街）上散步时注意到的海报，上面用黑色写着：“混蛋！班德拉*早晚会找到你的！！
*Stepan Bandera (斯捷潘·班德拉) — 是一位乌克兰政治家、革命家，是 20 世纪乌克兰民族主义运动中最激进和最著名的思想家、实践者和理论家之一。俄罗斯人在他们的宣传中使用他的名字，传播关于“新纳粹主义”和“法西斯主义”的谎言。（https://svidomi.in.ua/en/page/myths-of-neo-nazism-and-bandera-how-azov-became-the-target-of-russian-propaganda?source=post_page-----99e07fae8757--------------------------------------- ）
* 敖德萨著名而略带邪恶的幽默感，源于这座港口城市多种语言和商人的融合—一种敏锐、具有讽刺意味的智慧，受到作家们的赞扬，并且至今仍是这座城市最鲜明的特征之一。
幽默之都：这是这座城市的另一个昵称。敖德萨以其幽默、独特的口音以及讽刺和喜剧的传统而闻名。
她也被称为敖德萨妈妈，因为她独特的性格和热情好客的天性。
（图：海洋站，被俄罗斯导弹摧毁的酒店（左）；猫先生经过市议会（右））
关于猫，顺便说一句：
如果我们在敖德萨有几十只自己的猫，谁还需要伊斯坦布尔的蓬松猫呢？食物和水在外面随处可见，供它们享用。
在地平线下，敖德萨依然在于与大海争辩着什么......
……但总是带着微笑落败。。
南方之都：这个昵称凸显了敖德萨作为乌克兰南部重要城市的地位。
总有一天我会回到敖德萨，与我最亲近的人一起探索她的美丽和特色。
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