从乔布斯高领黑衫的秘密看主流媒体对东方文化渗透的封杀

来源: 安贝儿于 2011-10-12 21:24:40 [档案] [博客] [旧帖] [给我悄悄话] 本文已被阅读：次 (5389 bytes)

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苹果的创建者乔布斯不光创业有名，成名后一席高领黑衫更被大众追捧和模仿。

关于高领黑衫的来源，比较可信的有两类：

1。洛杉矶时报（LA Time）引用的老乔指定的传记作者Walter Isaacson提到：

On a trip to Japan in the early 1980s, Jobs asked Sony's chairman Akio Morita why everyone in the company's factories wore uniforms. He told Jobs that after the war, no one had any clothes, and companies like Sony had to give their workers something to wear each day. Over the years, the uniforms developed their own signatures styles, especially at companies such as Sony, and it became a way of bonding workers to the company. "I decided that I wanted that type of bonding for Apple," Jobs recalled.

Sony, with its appreciation for style, had gotten the famous designer Issey Miyake to create its uniform. It was a jacket made of rip-stop nylon with sleeves that could unzip to make it a vest. So Jobs called Issey Miyake and asked him to design a vest for Apple, Jobs recalled, "I came back with some samples and told everyone it would great if we would all wear these vests. Oh man, did I get booed off the stage. Everybody hated the idea."

In the process, however, he became friends with Miyake and would visit him regularly. He also came to like the idea of having a uniform for himself, both because of its daily convenience (the rationale he claimed) and its ability to convey a signature style. "So I asked Issey to make me some of his black turtlenecks that I liked, and he made me like a hundred of them." Jobs noticed my surprise when he told this story, so he showed them stacked up in the closet. "That's what I wear," he said. "I have enough to last for the rest of my life."

从这里可以明显地看到，老乔高领黑衫是受了东方（日本）创新者的影响。

2。另一种说法是比较流行的包括维基百科上的说法：Jobs usually wore a black long-sleeved mock turtleneck made by St. Croix, Levi's 501 blue jeans, and New Balance 991 sneakers。按照这一说法，老乔慧眼独识St.Croix的高领黑衫，把它发展成了自己个人着装的标志。

这两种说法，前一种因消息来源可靠，重可信度。后一种因传播广泛，几乎被大众接受为事实。

抛开孰是孰非不谈，有没有可能老乔最初真的是从日本设计师那里受了影响，后来发现了更舒适的St.Croix，就开始穿这一新款。但并没有完全抛弃从Miyaki那里得到的高领黑衫，所以两种说法都有道理呢？

值得深思的是，主流媒体里面为什么至今只对第二种说法广泛流传，而对第一种说法几乎只字不提直到Walter Isaacson暴料呢？还有就是这么多年Miyaki为什么对此一直保持沉默呢？

是西方主流媒体对东方文化渗透的在有意封杀，还是西方主流媒体缺乏追根究底坚持真理的细致呢？个人觉得更合理的可能是西方新闻界工作人员对东方文化的不敏感。

像老乔这样几乎被神话了的人物，当西方人报道他时，是说他穿St. Croix 这种带着贵族印记的衣服更合适他们对老乔的想象呢？还是把他跟日本设计师联系在一起更让他们觉得自然。这里，如果说西方主流媒体对东方文化渗透的在有意封杀，显然捕风捉影，偏激不合理。更多情况下，人们有思维的惯性。在老乔高领黑衫这件事上，更多的可能是人们思维的惯性和对世界尤其是东方文化缺乏熟悉理解导致了今天这个局面。

这让我联想到美国著名建筑师Frank Loyd Wright (FLW). FLW 的创意及对建筑史的影响是巨大的。东方文化对FLW的影响非常明显。比如说FLW在芝加哥的工作设计室是八角形的，全木质结构。并用木质长廊把起居室和工作室连接起来。对于我们东方人来说，东方建筑的影响一目了然。可翻遍介绍FLW的文章，没有人提到过东方建筑对他的影响。是故意封杀，不方便说，不好意思说，还是思维进了一个习惯性的框框。看不到我们这些东方人看来很明显的事实。FLW的年代要比老乔远些。那时候全球化才刚刚开始。所以说以上所列的原因都有一点儿也不足为奇。

St. Croix现在正以正统自居，在拍卖高领黑衫呢。St.Croix的高领黑衫我不会去买，有机会也许会弄件三宅一生的高领黑衫穿穿，并告诉每个问我的人，这才是正宗呢:)