Christian Dior Fall 2018 Ready-to-Wear Collection - Vogue
This May, France will mark the 50th anniversary of the Paris student protests of 1968. Maria Grazia Chiuri recently saw an exhibition about the events of that year in Rome, and she said it made her wonder what the house of Dior was doing at the time. A little digging revealed a rather fabulous discovery: a black-and-white photograph of chic young women protesting outside the Dior store because there were not enough miniskirts inside. (Hey, to each her own.) In fact, change was happening everywhere that year, including inside Dior. It was around 1968 when Marc Bohan launched Miss Dior, the house’s first ready-to-wear line; before that, Dior offered only made-to-measure haute couture clothing. “Fashion understood very well the time,” Chiuri reflected backstage.
Chiuri likewise understands her own time. Dovetailing as it has with the Trump era, her Dior tenure has coincided with a great feminist uprising. She’s held up a mirror to feminism’s fourth wave, quoting the Nigerian novelist Chimamanda Ngozi Adichie one season and the art theorist Linda Nochlin in another. This season, Chiuri saved almost all the slogans for her set, which elaborately reproduced magazine covers and protest art of the late 1960s; by connecting them, she subtly hinted at their interdependence. No one—no American, at least—who walked through the doors could’ve failed to make a connection with the ongoing protests against NRA-beholden politicians in the wake of the Parkland, Florida, school shooting. That is a student-led movement, too.
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