2013年Hermes围巾收集总结:90丝 (Part I)

来源: Darma 2014-01-26 17:26:14 [] [博客] [旧帖] [给我悄悄话] 本文已被阅读: 次 (375 bytes)
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爱好收集H家的围巾,只是因为喜欢,喜欢漂亮精致的东西。2013年过于腐败,检讨,但高兴的是自己的colletion 里面不仅增加了数量,也增加了品种。以前错过的一些设计,去年也在某bay 找到了,算是安心了。

90丝就是边长90公分的100% silk twill,应该是它家围巾里最受人欢迎的。去年90丝收得比较多,今天上一部分,这些都是在店里买的。另外,每条丝巾的设计后面都有故事,我能找到的都贴到这儿。丝巾平铺和折起来,有时效果会很不一样,所以都有折起来的照片,供大家参考。真人秀的木有,好几条还没来得及戴呢,天就冷得戴不了了。CW = color way.

1) "2663 Dame de Coeur" by Pierre Marie (CW: Noir/Orange/Sepia)

来自于2011FW (fall/winter season),是个reissue。这个设计师的作品在90丝里,这是我收集的第二条。今年买的羊绒披肩里也有一条来自于他。他的风格都很细腻,很多曲线和details. 刚开始觉得这上面的扑克牌过于有拉斯维加斯风,11年试戴了其他几个CW,也没有心动,直到试了这个CW。它家的东西很奇怪,经常是同一个设计,换个颜色会给人完全不一样的感觉。

关于设计(来自官网):
The creator for Hermès of a deck of cards populated with mythical creatures, here the designer of this scarf leads them in a graceful dance. Surrounded by a whirl of coloured ribbons, all encircle and protect the joker, the champion of their victory! No serious matter, earth, water, air and fire have a more playful demeanour. Humorous and dreamlike world in which fish smoke pipes and lady dragons contemplate their reflection in a mirror. In the world of the air the queen becomes a dove, in the earth, she transforms into a small dog of slender snout. If the Jack of spades takes the form of a charming seahorse in the world of water, the King of Diamonds, master of the world of fire, wears a smile…like a crocodile.

前两张照片是官网的,后面是自己拍的。










2) "Ors Bleus d'Afrique" by Zoé Pauwels (CW: Violet/blanc/parme)

来自于2013SS (spring/summer),这个设计师的作品在90丝里,这是我收集的第二条。虽然颜色不多,但紫得纯粹。在我的收集里面还没有这样的紫色的。设计本身也是我喜欢的异国风情和元素。

关于设计(来自官网):
Textiles are among the many riches of the African continent - its myriad peoples create their own, distinctive fabrics drawing on local resources, and reflecting their particular needs and beliefs, with a diverse plethora of weaves, prints and techniques. Perpetuating this extraordinary heritage, the skills of Africa’s textile artisans are handed down day after day – a process dear to the heart of the house of Hermès. Freely inspired by Nigeria’s adire eleko print technique (based on starch stenciling) this carré celebrates the use of a precious dye – indigo, central Africa’s ‘blue gold’ – with a journey to the heart of the region’s myths and legends. Of course, Hermès carrés are never named for one colour alone (how could they be?): but here is an exception to prove the rule. Our colourists delight in reinventing each composition in a multitude of colourways.

前两张照片是官网的,但有色差。说到这里不得不提,它家丝巾真人看到实物,永远比照片更加漂亮。

俺家猫闺女喜欢抢镜。。。












3) "Mexique" by Caty Latham (CW: Fuchsia/Cyclamen/Gris)

2013SS出的,Latham也是个出名的设计师,这是我收集里第二条出自她手。我开始犹豫了很久是否买这条。主要是这个设计边上留白处太宽了,戴不好把好看的部分就折到中间看不见,就看见宽边了,所以我一般避免买宽边的设计。不过,最后还是被这个浓郁紫色的JEWELRY TONE 配上是蓝色的羽毛征服了。这个设计比较适合COWBOY 戴法,或者三角折斜戴着,这样可以把设计展现得更好一些。还有这个丝巾的滚边很漂亮,contrast hem是我一向的软肋。

关于设计(来自官网):
A tribute to Mexico’s pre-Colombian civilisations, this carré features a delicate background design based on a stone disc evoking one of the most celebrated images of Aztec art. The Sun Stone, also known as the Aztec stone, inspired the celebrated poem of the same name by Octavio Paz. The twenty-four ton block was carved in the fifteenth century under the reign of Axayacatl, and rediscovered in Mexico City three centuries later. The design shows a select group of finely-decorated objects with symbolic motifs, placed on top of the stone: pendants and a statuette decorated with a feather headdress, from western Mexico. Pre-Colombian artefacts are so called because they predate the discovery of central America by Christopher Colombus, and the European invasions that resulted. The rich culture of pre-Colombian civilization is witnessed in the wealth of ruins and objects that survive, displaying astonishing artistry, architectural skill, and mathematical and astronomical knowledge.

第一张官网照片:












4) "Guepards" by Robert Dallet (CW: Blanc/Regaisse/Kaki Clair)

来自于2013FW,是个reissue。Dallet 是H设计师里面以擅长动物的描绘著名,广受H丝巾粉丝喜欢。中国题材四川就是出于他手。这条是我丝巾收集里面的第四条来自于他的设计,还有一条羊绒披肩也是他的设计。这次选的这条CW比较中性,而老虎豹子是我最喜欢的动物。

我对丝巾的设计要求是喜欢的题材,不仅平铺要好看,折起来也好看。丝巾两个不同的对角线折起来,效果有时迥异,在这个设计上就体现了这一点,这就是好的设计的奇妙之处。这里有见contrast hem, 呵呵。

关于设计(来自官网):
This carré squares the perpetual, circling beauty of the cheetah’s racing stride, its paws clustered tight in a concentration of power, before the body stretches out, as if in flight, in an almost perfect straight line. Running ‘flat out,’ as the saying goes, though the clumsy phrase does no justice to the animal’s perfect elegance and finesse. The four corners capture other facets of this exceptional creature: tender, peaceful, family scenes, and the innocent grace of the cubs, soon to become mighty predators in turn. Three thousand years ago, the ancient Sumerians, and later the Egyptians, trained cheetahs as hunting companions. In the sixteenth century, the Great Moghul Akbar was said to have captured nine thousand of them over the course of his reign. Based on studies by Robert Dallet – one of our finest wildlife artists, noted for his drawings of Big Cats – this carré is a tribute to a magnificent, threatened species. 

第一张官网照片,有色差啊,真吐血。。。










5) "La Promenade de Platon" by Annie Faivre (CW: Blanc/Vert/Gris)

来自于2013FW. Annie Faivre 也是广大粉丝特别喜欢的H设计师,非常多产,个人感觉以神秘的异国情调和细腻的笔触见长。这是我收集里的第7条来自于她的设计。也许什么时候把这7条贴个合集,放在一起,大家就能看出她的风格了,其实很鲜明和统一。这个设计很BUSY,所以我选了这个比较中性的CW。这个颜色春夏戴更合适,配白衬衫应该不错。

关于设计(来自官网):
Plato loved to stroll in the gardens of Akademia. It was here, in 387 BC, that he founded his ‘Academy,’ the first of its kind in history, named after its birthplace, which was itself named for the ancient Athenian hero Akademos. Teaching at the Academy nurtured the mind and body alike. Plato wrote his Dialogues here, debating goodness, beauty, justice and truth in an elegant style worthy of the finest authors.  A pupil of Socrates, the young Plato received a typical, aristocratic Athenian education, honing his skills as both an artist and gymnast. Drawing on artworks of the period, this carré evokes the annual Panhellenic games, held in honour of the gods. Here we see a horse and rider inspired by the Penthesilea Painter, famous for his beautifully decorated vases, and a javelin-thrower and horse from the canon of the vase painter and potter Euphronios. The Niobid Painter contributes his celebrated discus-thrower, the Euphiletos Painter hymns the ancient sprinters, and the Andokides Painter – an important pioneer of the Red Figure technique – honours the wrestlers. Inspired by their subjects of choice, designer Annie Faivre recreates scenes from ancient Greece, in her own inimitable style.

第一张官网照片











6) "Les Courses" by Yves Benoist Gironière (CW: Blanc/Noir/Gris Perle)

来自于2013FW. 一直都在找一个完美的黑白丝巾,2013年找到了。2013年秋冬季的主题是体育,我本来对这个主题没什么兴趣,但这个丝巾的设计的巧妙之处是,对角线不同的折法表现出来似乎是两条不同的丝巾。大家看照片就知道了。

关于设计(来自官网):
Dynamic diagonals! The sense of speed is palpable. One corner for the start, its opposite for the finish. That initial burst of energy, heart racing, as the animal surges forward, its rider connected only by the touchpoints of reins and stirrups… From the stalls to the finishing line, rider and mount embody lightness, power, intuition and technique – two minds connected by a shared instinct, intimately attuned to each other’s reactions. Our passion for horse racing dates back to Antiquity, evolving subtly down the intervening centuries. The modern form emerged in France and England, in the seventeenth century. Racecourses multiplied over the next hundred years, and today the sport is celebrated at prestige events like the Prix de l’Arc de Triomphe in Paris, and the Epsom Derby in Surrey, England。

整体图案是这样的,网上没找到黑白的照片。













7) "Astrologie" by Françoise Façonnet (CW: Fuchsia / Mordore / Blanc)
这个丝巾非常special, 因为上面有绣我名字的initials。8月去NYC玩的时候,当时正赶上H店里活动,全球只有四家有这个活动。就是把过去的一些经典设计和最早出的经典颜色重新印出来, 限量,可以绣上名字的首字母。买了以后,丝巾送回巴黎由工匠刺绣,并不贵也不用掏运费。不过历时很长,我到10月下旬才收到。

这个配色CW应该是1963年始发的颜色。这款设计是太阳和十二星座,当年因为肯尼迪夫人戴过而名噪一时。整个配色非常鲜艳,在我的收集里面这样的还真不多。第一张照片里绣名字字母的地方处理了一下。













发帖真是个辛苦活儿啊。。。今天到这儿,下次Part II 把在某BAY上买的几条也和大家分享下。然后还有其他几个主题和介绍:Summer Twill, Maxi Twilly and cashmere shawl. Stay tuned...... Thanks for letting me share!

所有跟帖: 

哇?赶上直播了。沙发!广告位招租。 -绿树茵茵- 给 绿树茵茵 发送悄悄话 绿树茵茵 的博客首页 (0 bytes) () 01/26/2014 postreply 17:51:17

谢谢捧场啊,总算折腾完了,累得吐血! -Darma- 给 Darma 发送悄悄话 Darma 的博客首页 (0 bytes) () 01/26/2014 postreply 19:14:47

沙发能无偿出让吗? 咱俩挤一挤。 -周迅和汤唯都是好演员- 给 周迅和汤唯都是好演员 发送悄悄话 (0 bytes) () 01/27/2014 postreply 12:56:20

你觉得某bay卖的一定是真家伙? 怎么识别? 先谢了. -cawan- 给 cawan 发送悄悄话 (0 bytes) () 01/26/2014 postreply 19:32:16

看上好几款, 一直不敢下手. -cawan- 给 cawan 发送悄悄话 (0 bytes) () 01/26/2014 postreply 19:33:35

看卖家级别,交易记录和location. -Darma- 给 Darma 发送悄悄话 Darma 的博客首页 (218 bytes) () 01/26/2014 postreply 21:52:57

看质地,细节,折痕,FABRIC TAG,避免买热门款,比如BDG之类:) -peggioka- 给 peggioka 发送悄悄话 (0 bytes) () 01/26/2014 postreply 22:54:38

太强大了!!!而且都很好看! -留下阳光- 给 留下阳光 发送悄悄话 (0 bytes) () 01/26/2014 postreply 19:38:02

太美了,要窒息了 -FrostyMM- 给 FrostyMM 发送悄悄话 FrostyMM 的博客首页 (0 bytes) () 01/26/2014 postreply 19:52:53

精品丝巾,精品贴! -茶韵清香- 给 茶韵清香 发送悄悄话 (0 bytes) () 01/26/2014 postreply 19:53:05

谢谢MM和楼上的两位!喜欢的东西,独乐乐不如众乐乐。 -Darma- 给 Darma 发送悄悄话 Darma 的博客首页 (0 bytes) () 01/26/2014 postreply 21:54:15

最喜欢最后一条,好美。绣名字的也很特别,独一无二的,感觉很棒。 -圆心- 给 圆心 发送悄悄话 圆心 的博客首页 (0 bytes) () 01/26/2014 postreply 20:00:20

那条灰绿色的现在官网还有的。 -Darma- 给 Darma 发送悄悄话 Darma 的博客首页 (0 bytes) () 01/26/2014 postreply 21:55:21

真漂亮! -綠樹青山- 给 綠樹青山 发送悄悄话 (0 bytes) () 01/26/2014 postreply 20:18:42

壮观+ 美丽收藏!! 真心请教一个问题--你用这些围巾吗? 去哪里干洗呢? >>> -虚席以待- 给 虚席以待 发送悄悄话 虚席以待 的博客首页 (81 bytes) () 01/26/2014 postreply 20:19:11

真好看,没有一条hermes 的飘过 -zhudi- 给 zhudi 发送悄悄话 zhudi 的博客首页 (0 bytes) () 01/26/2014 postreply 20:20:09

我是从每年过生日给自己买一条开始的,第一条是2000年买的。女人要对自己好一些。 -Darma- 给 Darma 发送悄悄话 Darma 的博客首页 (0 bytes) () 01/26/2014 postreply 21:56:50

谢谢分享,美丽的收藏~~诚心请教,你戴过的围巾去哪里干洗? 干洗后效果如何? -虚席以待- 给 虚席以待 发送悄悄话 虚席以待 的博客首页 (0 bytes) () 01/26/2014 postreply 20:39:59

还没洗过,也不打算送去干洗。不懂的洗完一熨,那个滚边就熨平完蛋了。 -Darma- 给 Darma 发送悄悄话 Darma 的博客首页 (171 bytes) () 01/26/2014 postreply 22:00:43

我手洗,跟H店员说,把她们吓了一跳:) 所以我喜欢DIP DYE和VINTAGE 70CM -peggioka- 给 peggioka 发送悄悄话 (12 bytes) () 01/26/2014 postreply 22:48:00

不能水洗的,淋雨都不好! -petiteflower- 给 petiteflower 发送悄悄话 petiteflower 的博客首页 (0 bytes) () 01/27/2014 postreply 13:34:57

I think you can. A lot of scarf owners on TPF shared their succ -Dharma- 给 Dharma 发送悄悄话 (0 bytes) () 01/28/2014 postreply 10:51:03

我是买了,很少用,不知道脏了怎么办?奶奶一直说"陈丝烂稻草",我看着那个盒子里的丝,哀呀 -虚席以待- 给 虚席以待 发送悄悄话 虚席以待 的博客首页 (37 bytes) () 01/27/2014 postreply 08:21:35

真正的爱家啊,呵呵,非常壮观! -弹指一瞬间- 给 弹指一瞬间 发送悄悄话 弹指一瞬间 的博客首页 (0 bytes) () 01/26/2014 postreply 20:49:55

真是收藏家。thanks for sharing. -zephyr2012- 给 zephyr2012 发送悄悄话 zephyr2012 的博客首页 (0 bytes) () 01/26/2014 postreply 22:09:43

Robert Dallet是我比较喜欢的设计师,我收藏最多的就是他的。 -花椒~- 给 花椒~ 发送悄悄话 花椒~ 的博客首页 (66 bytes) () 01/26/2014 postreply 22:29:46

花椒捧场受宠若惊! 翘首以待你的收藏…… -Darma- 给 Darma 发送悄悄话 Darma 的博客首页 (0 bytes) () 01/28/2014 postreply 19:26:17

谢谢精美收藏帖!收藏的乐趣之一在其中的故事。期待第二级 -Plum99- 给 Plum99 发送悄悄话 (0 bytes) () 01/27/2014 postreply 08:54:49

Agree, the story behind a design makes it more interesting. -Dharma- 给 Dharma 发送悄悄话 (0 bytes) () 01/28/2014 postreply 10:16:12

华人的著名ID阿~问好大妈姐姐~ -小片子- 给 小片子 发送悄悄话 小片子 的博客首页 (0 bytes) () 01/27/2014 postreply 09:17:53

哪里买便宜?谢谢 -Schering- 给 Schering 发送悄悄话 Schering 的博客首页 (0 bytes) () 01/27/2014 postreply 09:57:25

Twice a year sample sale in NYC and Paris, you may find 90 twill -Dharma- 给 Dharma 发送悄悄话 (0 bytes) () 01/28/2014 postreply 10:19:20

那个紫色的。。。真的好喜欢 -舞女- 给 舞女 发送悄悄话 舞女 的博客首页 (0 bytes) () 01/27/2014 postreply 10:32:45

非常美丽的收藏 -fishwa- 给 fishwa 发送悄悄话 fishwa 的博客首页 (0 bytes) () 01/27/2014 postreply 11:15:01

Thanks to you and MMs above! -Dharma- 给 Dharma 发送悄悄话 (0 bytes) () 01/28/2014 postreply 10:34:03

很漂亮,很精致,妳戴上一定很美~~~~~ -快乐的生活着- 给 快乐的生活着 发送悄悄话 (0 bytes) () 01/27/2014 postreply 11:39:52

Thanks, I hope I am getting gracefully aged as you are! -Dharma- 给 Dharma 发送悄悄话 (0 bytes) () 01/28/2014 postreply 10:33:24

都好看。只是: -Fishtank- 给 Fishtank 发送悄悄话 Fishtank 的博客首页 (58 bytes) () 01/27/2014 postreply 12:39:18

猎豹to me is 豹子, haha...couldn't tell the difference -Dharma- 给 Dharma 发送悄悄话 (50 bytes) () 01/28/2014 postreply 10:23:47

d'Afrique俺收了和你的截然相反的色调,嘻嘻 -petiteflower- 给 petiteflower 发送悄悄话 petiteflower 的博客首页 (6 bytes) () 01/27/2014 postreply 13:29:08

You must have got the warm color one. Simply stunning, isn't it -Dharma- 给 Dharma 发送悄悄话 (0 bytes) () 01/28/2014 postreply 10:32:39

darma好东西真多。生活里一定是个精致的人儿:) -爱丽丝冒险记- 给 爱丽丝冒险记 发送悄悄话 (0 bytes) () 01/27/2014 postreply 13:44:35

精致, not at all. H scarf, to me, represent art and craftsmanship. -Dharma- 给 Dharma 发送悄悄话 (0 bytes) () 01/28/2014 postreply 10:37:28

很美很壮观,谢谢MM分享。 -lessthan- 给 lessthan 发送悄悄话 lessthan 的博客首页 (0 bytes) () 01/27/2014 postreply 15:52:49

刚刚在淘宝网上买了一条跟你第一条相似的。 -blush?- 给 blush? 发送悄悄话 (0 bytes) () 01/27/2014 postreply 18:29:43

能告诉一下淘宝网站的店铺名吗? -alohamusic- 给 alohamusic 发送悄悄话 (0 bytes) () 01/28/2014 postreply 03:45:55

Re: 能告诉一下淘宝网站的店铺名吗? -blush?- 给 blush? 发送悄悄话 (104 bytes) () 01/28/2014 postreply 16:15:39

There is a huge (day and night) difference between a H scarf and -Dharma- 给 Dharma 发送悄悄话 (421 bytes) () 01/28/2014 postreply 10:47:52

Re:There is a huge (day and night) difference -blush?- 给 blush? 发送悄悄话 (334 bytes) () 01/28/2014 postreply 16:28:11

其实他家丝巾没有logo,不知道的人觉得好看,但根本不知道是个牌子 -darma- 给 darma 发送悄悄话 darma 的博客首页 (64 bytes) () 01/28/2014 postreply 19:02:43

太震撼了,这就是发烧友啊!各有特色我都喜欢!绝对相信实物更加震撼。多谢分享!! -greenlawn- 给 greenlawn 发送悄悄话 greenlawn 的博客首页 (27 bytes) () 01/27/2014 postreply 19:11:01

Thanks, 发烧友, yes, indeed, haha... -Dharma- 给 Dharma 发送悄悄话 (0 bytes) () 01/28/2014 postreply 10:52:10

非常的美丽诱人。 -温柔大猫- 给 温柔大猫 发送悄悄话 温柔大猫 的博客首页 (0 bytes) () 01/28/2014 postreply 07:43:18

要用蒸汽烫平了再戴。 4 惊艳。 -waikikitea- 给 waikikitea 发送悄悄话 (0 bytes) () 01/28/2014 postreply 16:54:56

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