玫瑰嫁接技术要点

天狼说月季 树月季的嫁接 高清

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hj6vAQPVMoo&t=204s

倒T嫁接 2:57

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RBC-t4MUoAk

 

这个是我在YouTube上看到的最好的玫瑰嫁接tutorial。从来没有见过如此认真无私传授商业机密的，让我们这些业余爱好者少走很多弯路。

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WpyJDV6782Y

摘要一些重点：

The biggest tip I can give is put the stick in the pot in nice cold wet weather and do the budding in nice warm weather. Also use a very simple no fertiliser potting mix to plant the stick to start with. You can add fertiliser once it has roots showing at the bottom of the pot.

rootstock：

fortuniana or Dr Huey or climbing rose shoot

if you choose established claiming Rose, You can but you might find the climbing rose is so strong it keeps throwing new shoots that will outgrow the patio rose. best to strike a cutting of the climber and then bud/graft onto it while still small.

fertilizer fobore rootstock cutting:

we t bud fortuniana, I've also chip budded with success. You need a good sap flow, urea is too hot, npk blue would be better and around 3 weeks before budding. Striking fortuniana is not easy, they do need misting in my experience but high humidity would be a good start. We take the cutting about 1 month before the fortuniana starts flowering.

(no fertilizer in one week before buying, other wise burn bud.)

Timing: winter before new shootings 

medium: 40%peat, 60% caurse perlite or seeding start mix

(https://www.latimes.com/archives/la-xpm-1988-02-20-vw-11310-story.html

Rooting times differ for species and varieties. Winter hardwood cuttings are easier to keep alive but take a long time to root. For that reason Martin advises home gardeners to use soil as the rooting medium so that nutrients will be immediately available to the young roots. However, for the quicker rooting semi-hardwood cuttings taken from ripened portions of the current year’s growth during the growing season, he advises using a rooting media mix of half perlite and half builders sand horticulturally referred to as “mister mix.”)

Watering: 

Fortuniana get water spray six times a day until they have roots, two months maybe. Dr huey get watered twice a day onwards. Fog is no good as is too dry.

 

 

So if you want to use a normal garden rose as rootstock what you need to do is find a very strong growing variety or better still a climbing rose as this would more than likely have a very good strong root system. Then you would get a good rootstock. Rootstock are also selected for their disease resistance but I find some widely used rootstocks are not very disease resistant in my experience

You could use a cutting from any strong growing climbing rose in your local area and would be ok, just don't want a varitey that sends out suckers. If you have Dr Huey it is a very good stock to learn on, strikes easy and is easy to bud with a high success rate.

grow condition:

Yes fortuniana full sun better. Yep one hour spray water again. Only enough water to wet the top and keep the mix damp, don't want to make it soggy or rots. Dr huey better to water with sprinkler as roots come fast so they need to drink. Not soggy, keep checking. Normally a ten minute water is best. Here coldest part of winter best to take cuttings.

Fortuniana can be a bugger. Yes with dr huey and multiflora we just stick them in the pot outside. I don't do anything special to them, no hormone no tricks. Some things we do that i feel important is plant as soon as possible after cutting, within the day is best. Never let the stick dry out once cut. Until planted keep wet constantly. Select a basic potting mix, you don't want any fertilizer in it at all or it will just burn them. Seed raising mix would be best. Water it in after planting and then water three or four times a day until it makes roots. I have the sprinklers on a controller. You don't want to drench them but give them enough water to fully wet the stick and keep the potting mix wet without being soggy. Soggy is better than dry as once dry it is finished. Full sun is best. If you can help it don't pull the stick out checking for action, instead turn the pot over with your hand spread out to hold as much surface area of potting mix and the rose cutting sticking out between two fingers and carefully take the pot off. After six weeks you should have roots touching the bottom of the pot. Some take longer some are quicker. We have about a 99.9% take on good years and 95% on worse years, fortuniana is about 80% but done in cells, a further 10% loss planting them out and then another 15% loss on budding and from budding to mature bush probably lose another 5%. After that fortuniana is virtually un killable. We do all our cutting here in june/july. I have found if you wait until the leaves fall off but before the stock shoots that is the best time to cut. If the stock is shooting away the take is bad. In colder areas you could probably cut in august. I think that covers it mostly.

 

about ten to 12 weeks for roots to come and be strong.

Roots strength: Yes these develop a very very strong root system. We have done 200cm standards and the tops became 400cm wide. The stems became about 10cm thick in diameter. The fortuniana rootstock roots go down in search of water many metres and will live hundreds of years happily and healthy. Dr huey is not so strong but still a very strong plant but wont live forever, maybe fifty years.

 

Bud：

timing: summer, temperature higher than 20

Make sure it is warm enough before budding, over 20 degrees celcius. Also you don't want the rootstock to have too much nitrogen fertiliser for a good few weeks before budding but enough to keep it healthy and the sap flowing. A silly thing I do is before doing the first bud I get a piece of wood from a rose bush and using my budding knife I cut it into long strips. The reason is I feel it gets any contaminants off the blade of the knife and a smearing of rose sap. Might sound silly but works for me. I noticed many years ago the first bud of the season rarely took or even after sharpening the knife. Anything is worth a try! And the main tip would be to make sure your knife is really really sharp, it is probably the key. All the best professional budders have extremely sharp knives that you could shave with.

We cut the bud wood just before we are ready to bud, the closer to budding the better it is. If you wrap it in damp paper and then seal it in plastic and put it in the fridge it can last for months. You can also put the sticks into a bucket of water and they will be good for a few weeks. But if you cut it the day you are budding so it is really fresh then you will have a better take.

Bud choose

Best to select a stem that is not too thick, wait until the flower has dropped its petals as the buds will then be fully developed. Then select the buds closer to the flower end as these buds are ripe and ready to grow. But not the two closest as they can be a bit inconsistent. So really third but down is the best.

Stock ready: When you peel the outer layer back it should separate from the wood layer easily, if it is hard to do then you need to get the rootstock growing stronger to get a good sap flow.

use rubber bands for tying buds. You don't have to remove it, it will ping off itself after a few weeks just don't tie over the eye of the bud

Usually withing two weeks you will know if the graft has taken. If it is still green after two weeks you can be pretty confident. Sometimes it is hard to tell but if you put a small scratch on the top or bottom of the budding material you will see if it is green or not. Usually you will see callusing around the edges of the bud which is like white bumpy growths. Not always though. Then the bud eye will start to swell and a shoot will emerge from it. The more sun you can get on it the happier it will be but as long as there is some sort of light source it should try to grow towards it.

About 21

One thing you must be sure of is that your knife is very very sharp, that will help. Keep practising on spare wood and it will get easier and easier.

transplant：

We plant in july, our winter.

we plow soil over the the budded roses so frost cant get to them..

After watching this video, i was able to graft roses with 100% success. i am also using air layering to get the stock to root(i obtained the stock from a plant i also air layered from a sucker). it's much faster for grafting at home , the stock roots meanwhile the bud shoots and grows. Now i can get any rose i want. i recently grafted 3 different roses from a rose bouquet. You are really the best! Thank you.

 

tree rose 2 in 1

https://www.weeksroses.com/catalog_new#p=66

A.重瓣白木香Rosa Fortuniana：它是由Rosa banksiae(木香)和Rosa laevigata (金樱子)天然杂交而来.据说是最耐热的品种.夏天高温的确对她没啥影响.依然旺盛生长著.世界上许多研究都十分推崇这个品种.所以.本园也将多多生产这个砧木.

　　B. 野蔷薇 Rosa minutifolia ：她是非常好用的砧木.扦插发根快.嫁接愈合组织良好.细根多而密.生长速度很快.而且没有刺.我个人目前非常喜欢这个品种.目前在世界各地还是被广泛使用著.据说他的接穗是所有品种里面最长寿的.

　　C.香水月季 Odorata：Odorata是非常适应台湾炎热气候的砧木.生长非常旺盛.产量非常大.根据台湾已经正式发表的论文指出.她做为砧木可以达到两倍的开花量!

　　D. 小金樱 Rosa taiwanensis ：就是中药常用的小金樱!生长势超强.是唯一自然分布再台湾低海拔的原生种玫瑰.老干呈荒皮状.相当美丽高古!所有砧木品里面种.以这一款生长速度最快!

　　E. 修博士Dr. Huey ：这是美国目前最常用的砧木品种，美国最大的二家位於加州砧木苗生产业者是用Dr. Huey当砧木，它容易扦插繁殖，对一般的土壤和气候适应能够也相当不错，储存和运送期间均可维持很好的状态。它是较耐热的玫瑰，喜爱偏碱性的土壤，美国加州和南部(佛罗里达除外)广用之。Dr. Huey是春天开花的现代蔓性玫瑰，根系很强。在美国网站常常有人问到在野外或废弃农舍看到一种红色蔓性玫瑰，通常就是Dr. Huey，因为原本玫瑰挂掉，而砧木凭藉著强轫生命力继续生长。Dr. Huey很适合加州的土壤、气候，能嫁接的时间又比其他的砧木长，且最大的砧木苗生产业者是在加州，因此Dr. Huey成为美国最常用的砧木。

　　F.红花野蔷薇 Rosa minutifolia K2 : 这是一款非常容易粗壮的砧木.而且据说非常的抗玫瑰"根头肿病"(一种类似癌细胞的肿瘤)他长得很快!枝条粗很快.又长又好用!!无论高压或者扦插的成活率都很高!是日本很推崇的品系!他耐寒又耐热.春天会开红花!

 

结穗

Polyantha rose

https://scvrs.homestead.com/Polyanthas.html

适合南加的玫瑰

https://abc-pestcontrol.com/in-celebration-of-the-rose-americas-favorite-flower-keeps-getting-better-and-better/

Hot and Dry Climates (Southern California and the Southwest):

Pretty Lady Rose, Neil Diamond, Doris Day, Tropical Lightning, Coretta Scott King