车型：2008 BMW 750Li E66 N62 95,000km
啥都好就是漏油，查过几次可以确定的up timing cover肯定漏，而且有一部分机油都便宜到发电机转子上了！上个月有空又仔细查了查，详情移步：漏油的宝马例行保养及换辅助水泵。
配件上周就到了，一直犹豫要不要自己作案，昨天天气暖和些说有22度，开了机盖看了看不知不觉就开拆了，越拆越多停不下来，前后花了大致9-10个小时两个半天，昨天下午的前5个小时心理和体力上堪称折磨，今天上午安装及收尾倒还顺利但也花去了4个多小时，一次试车成功上路，后续还需观察是否安装不当接着漏油！
拆卸下来的所有相关密封，注意原装的VCG在半月型和四角都有RTV痕迹，安装新VCG如法炮制。
这是网友写的大致步骤可供参考 ：
For this E65/E66 DIY you'll need:
- Gasket set (Zyl. 5-8) : 11127513195 : 75$
- Rubber seals (3x spares) : 11127511582 : 8$ (optional)
- Valvetronic O-Ring : 07119903596: 3$
- Sensor Sealing : 11127518420: 5$
- Sensor O-Ring 2x : 12141748398: 5$
- Cap Nut 4x : 11127568834: 15$ (optional)
- Cap Nut 4x : 11127568835: 20$ (optional)
- Pipe 4x : 11127570219 : 100$
- Spark Plugs 8x : 45$ (optional)
- Torque wrench capable of 5 - 25NM
- Torx sockets (male & female), Tx20, 25, 27, 30 - E6
- Metric sockets 10mm
- Good (!!) set of socket tools including universal joints, multiple lenth extenders
Difficulty Level 1-10: 8 -- there is danger of breaking other items and you may be left with a non-driveable vehicle. Took me 2 full days to complete.
Before starting to work, remove the lover engine compartment screening and reinforcement plate. You will drop stuff, this will give you a chance to retrieve it.
Also let the engine cool down.
Use two compartmented boxes. One for the parts to be inserted. One for the parts extracted. Place them in chronological order.
Before you start, these are the items I had most difficulty with. Think about them and possibly you can avoid them.
- the retaining tabs on the eccentric shaft sensor break easily. If you break both, its a 350$ part.
- there is a levelling sensor at the bottom of the hydraulic oil reservoir. If your not careful, it breaks. Sensor is cheap, but you need the drain the reservoir to replace.
- the fuel liine needs to be disconnected to take the cover out. You'll be surprised how much fuel comes out. Have plugs for both ends ready... before you disconnect.
- to remove the old round rubber seals, place the valve cover on a large piece of cardboard. The old seals were quite bittle and broke during removal. You do not want to have little plastic pieces floating around in your oil system. Check that all is clean.
- the TIS tells you to replace the round rubber seals before re-inserting the valve cover. 3 of the lower ones popped out and were found a day later in the most unaccessable areas. I'd suggest to insert them after the valve cover is back in.
- The pipes do not like to be inserted into the valve cover easily - even with anti-friction coating. The lower cap nuts then will not engage. I used some self made washers to use the upper cap nuts and increase tension. Also wood and a mallet comes to thought.
- torques are not listed in TIS. Be careful not to overtorque.
1) Remove engine accoustic cover
2) Remove both fresh air ducts
3) Remove centre engine compartment partition wall (5171085)
4) Remove ignition coil covering
5) Remove ignition coils (1213511)
6) Optional - Replace spark plugs (1212011) 23NM - use anti-seize agent
7) Remove servomotor for left eccentric shaft (1137022) - you must reinitialize the valvetronic setting before starting the engine, once the repair is completed. I heard this happens automatically after 20secs - ignition on w/o starting (aka foot off brake pedal). I re-learned it in INPA.
8) Replace sealing left cylinder head cover (1112005)
Removing and inserting the valve cover is very difficult, as there is not enough room to clear the eccentic shaft sensor. The valve cover has to be rotated with the front up maybe 25° to clear it. Took me forever.
- I used permatex ultra blue where drei bond 1209 was called for.
- Glycerin served as my rubber anti-friction coating, but was not helpful enough.
- To torque down the lower side I used self made aluminum washers. Most likely there are off the self washers, that can be used instead.
- Initially I overtorqued the fasteners. My final setting was 10NM.
9) Put everything back together again. Use
- 10 NM for the valve cover nuts and bolts
- 5NM for the torx sensor bolts
- 5NM for the Valvetronic spacer bolts
- 8NM for the Valvetronic motor
10) I've attached some additional pictures of where I was able to find the dropped parts. All where accounted for. A stick with some duct tape proved to be most helpful.
Hope this is a help.
Regards, flash-n
怠速马达初始化：点火着车前再次确认安装连线完美无误后，将钥匙插入不踩刹车按启动，30-40秒之后退出钥匙等待10秒钟，再重复此操作过程一次，再待10-15秒以后插入钥匙正常启动，无故障无报错怠速正常可以上路！
如果还有漏油，臭名昭著的发电机支架及油冷器密封漏油可能就是下一个探险，配件10刀左右在手里几个月了，有空有心情再说，现在老腰干点活不像十年前了，先歇着去了。
顺便说，如果有开BMW N62 V8引擎的网友需要此类帮助请悄悄话给我，别的没有注意事项还是有些心得。
部分心得：
1：喷油嘴阵列一定要拆，需要撬才能松动，汽油管路需要断开注意汽油外泄安全。安装时在橡胶密封O ring涂卸silicon paste以便坐实不损害O ring.
2: VC最里端的三个感应器，最值钱的那个eccentric shaft sensor拆装注意不要磕碰搞断，其余的那两个cam shaft sensor松螺丝旋转即可卸下，这能为下VC而不磕碰高值感应器争取1-2厘米的空间；因为太紧空间太窄无从下手仅松开VC就耗时1个多小时，担心破坏成真为了完美卸下VC又前后折腾了1个小时，这期间心理真的很挣扎，还在小板凳上又看了看上面视频的相关部分。
3：Up timing cover的最下面一颗螺栓藏在发电机后面，需要卸上松下两颗16mm螺栓将发电机顺时针转动10-20度才能显露那颗TC上的螺栓，螺栓千万千万不要掉落，否则有可能要卸发电机才能找到！
4：VC初始要用撬棍或长螺丝锥撬才能松开一个小缝隙，主要是里面的SP tube非常紧，需要向上20-30度成拧麻花的姿势才能完全分离，后端的那个400刀的感应器非常容易在不经意中搞断，要看着里面多次测试才能无损分离，安装同理！
5：方向机储液罐底部有个液位感应器，左右移动时注意不要掰断，虽然没几个钱但很费功夫要清空才能安装新感应器。
6: 装发动机皮带一定要仔细确认是否对齐，底部较黑稍微不注意皮带会错齿牙。
7：Valvetronic servomotor，拆卸前做好对位记号，拆的时候一定要按住【会跳起来】逆时针转直至分离，安装时不知为何不需按压直接即可顺时针拧入，转了几圈按对位记号对好固定四颗螺丝，着车前一定初始化否则怠速会失常。
8：VC和TC上的螺栓尽量交错星型对角拧，不要一次到位多拧几遍后再到规定力矩。
9：所有电器接插一定坐实，真空管复接无误，汽油管路及喷嘴牢靠连接和安装。
10：安装所有无法手拧的螺栓都使用masking tape粘接好以防掉了，找失落的螺栓比拆装还费时间而且心情会变得很差。
11：小工具要齐全，德系常用的偏门套管及板头要提前备好，3/8万用转向转接头必备。
12：VCG 半月型及转角和SP tube两端均涂写耐高温耐油RTV。
13：仔细看两遍视频非常有帮助，剩下的就是干活常识可以灵活调整。
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