从La Paz经过一夜卧铺汽车,一大早就来到了Uyuni。路是新修的,所以睡得还算平稳。订好旅行社后还有不少时间,就闲逛到街上,看到炸油饼就买了做早餐,心想有高温消毒不至于吃坏肚子。旁边有个鲜榨果汁摊,就买了木瓜牛奶作为饮品。估计是牛奶没有冷藏保存,最后还得以一道Imodium收场:)。吸取这次教训后,就只买不加水和牛奶的纯鲜榨汁了。
终于等到10:30, 坐上将要伴随我们3天的Toyota Land Cruiser,同时也结识了四位很酷的“战友”和爱说话的司机兼导游兼厨子Adelio。Sergio和Rosalia20出头,是西班牙人,还在读大学,会说英语,嗓音特别好听,就这样我们幸运地得到了两位充满活力的翻译:)。Mike和Katharine来自UK,这次旅行结束后准备定居澳大利亚。回家后不久就收到他们的email, 说是正在巴西一个叫Morro de São Paulo的岛上,过几天就去Rio, lucky them! 这次旅行中遇到的很多人行程都在一个月以上,感觉从欧洲来的人居多。Adelio同时也是这个旅行社的owner, 60多岁了,不过看上去也就是50岁左右,他居然有9个孩子!
Train Cemetery (3669m) 离Uyuni不远,很快就到了。许多人在废弃的火车上爬上爬下,乐此不疲
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The Llama and Salt Museum
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第一眼见到的盐湖是干涸的,一望无际的白色
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有些地方也有漏洞:)
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The original Salt Hotel, 现在变成大家的午餐场所。Adedio变戏法似地端上了新鲜的salads with cheese, 猪排,米饭还有饮料。
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吃饱后继续向盐湖深处进发。盐湖真的好大(10,582 square kilometers to be exact)!开了好一会才到达Isla Incahuasi (3653m) ,盐湖上一个长满巨型仙人掌的小岛。
岛上的仙人掌以每年1厘米的速度生长,有的长了1000年,高达10米,自然界真是很神奇!![](https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-7h4mN6_m20Q/WKw9xGFRYKI/AAAAAAAAEC0/04tVvlnMbWsKKLt9OR_AnMpRrMvBQ4zlACPcB/s640/WSU_3269%2B-%2BCopy.jpg)
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用仙人掌做成的门质感很独特
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仙人掌也有美丽花开的时候
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蓝色SUV就是我们乘坐的Toyota
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随后有经验的Adelio带我们来到一片有水的区域,终于看到了朝思暮想的天空之镜!
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晚上住在全部由盐建成的旅馆,虽然简单却也是温暖的所在。晚餐由旅馆的工作人员现场准备,有可口的土豆汤和鸡肉。花10 BOB洗了一个热水澡,养精蓄锐,一觉睡到天亮。
第二天没开多远就看到一片绿茵茵草甸,有很多羊驼在悠闲地吃着草
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真正的off-road experience
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荒漠中的午餐,别有风味,最后还有青苹果“溜缝儿”:)
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仍记得第一眼见到野生火烈鸟的惊喜
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Arbol de Piedra (4412m) on Siloli desert - a stone tree that has been carved out of the howling, sandy winds, 大概有7米高。
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Laguna Colorada (4278m),colored red by the algae that live in it,是我最爱的湖。在这里流连忘返,不忍离去,看不够这山,这水和这里的一切,但愿此情此景能永远铭刻在心间。喜欢这里的苍劲与辽远,还有油画一般的色彩,甚至原谅了它那强劲的让我头发缠绕的狂风:)
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天色已晚,顶着狂风回到Eduardo Avaroa Andean Fauna National Reserve的住处。Adelio早已准备好咖啡和小点心,大家围坐在桌边愉快地交谈。晚餐有汤和Pasta, 竟然还有红酒助兴。旁边桌子上有两个日本男孩特别爱说话,头发留得都很长。今夜“战友”们要住在同一屋檐下,也没有淋浴设施。第二天起床时听到Katharine在喊冷,由于我们有备而来,穿上了轻薄的羽绒服和长筒羊毛袜,一点也不冷,俺们来自寒冷地区的人总算有点优势了:)。2月是这里的夏季,冬季时夜里温度会更低。
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第二天4:30起床时,一轮圆月仍挂在天边
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本来计划5点出发,由于有一辆车坏了就耽搁了一点时间。最后有两个女孩被分配到我们车上了,出门在外,互相帮助嘛:)。
开了没多久,就来到了Solar de Manaña geyser basin (4850m)。虽然见过Yellow Stone National Park形形色色的Geyser,在这高原清冷的早晨再次相见,还是有着说不出的欢喜,感觉像是来到了另一个世界。
Termas de Polques hot springs (4400m)
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房前有一个小的可怜的温泉池,没带游泳衣,也不稀得一试:)
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Laguna Blanca (4400m), 右边是Vulcán Lincacabur (5960m)。在这里我们与相处了3天的"战友"们告别,他们将进入智利继续旅行。
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好几次在车窗外见到vicugna,还有一次遇见4只在过马路 (手机照)
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最后一站,San Cristobal小镇有个350年的教堂,可惜没开门,它的院墙很别致
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将近5点回到了Uyuni,心甘情愿地用中文 (英文的已经很多了) 给旅行社写了些赞美之词贴在墙上。再见了Uyuni,再见了,另人魂牵梦绕的高原,怀念你的广袤无垠与苍凉,还有那真正的地老天荒...
我的游记:
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