这个周末天气很好白天高温不过25度，于是乘机玩耍一下各种工具。
先是把孩子那辆2006年的RX330左右车门车身的好几个小凹陷拔了拔，不细看还真看不来，现在家里的各位领导都知道以后再也不用发愁这些难看小凹陷，随便来碰吧！
情况不明的请移步这里：凹陷无损修复工具测试【一】
然后是另外两辆车的冷却液寿命测试
2008 BMW E66 83000公里【50000迈】
去年五月部分更换了冷却液【Radiator Drain & Fill 6升】，既定方针是每两年一次，因为我这车这几年每年的里程跑的少【6000-8000公里】，所以劳模一次就使用了每三年左右的间隔，期间有空就测一测pH值和电压，如果数值不太离谱就睁一眼闭一眼等3年。
5个月前添至max,现在大致在max-min中间偏min,缺液【百十来毫升】原因不详，反正先50/50加点儿呗！
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网传0.3V之内【铝合金engine block,铸铁的是0.5V】就达标，当然越低越好啦。
这个不是汽车冷却液测试专用的试纸，不过也有pH值，看颜色大致在7.2-7.8之间。
菜车跑不远，电池老是充不足，不过快九年的原厂电池还是蛮给力的，虽已近暮年打火还是杠杠的不含糊，再抗个一年半载应该没问题，网上又见用11-12年才换的，当然每个人的驾驶使用和环境气候都不会一样，所以也不能一概而论。
这是在家里停驶两天后测的电压，老是半饱【全饱不了了】！
已经开了机盖顺便充充电，
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2009 BMW E71 39000公里【23500迈】
原厂冷却液【7年】
在犹豫是否今年亦或明年要把冷却液部分更换了【Radiator Drain & Fill】,虽然指标尚可，但主要年头还是有点儿久了，都是自己当劳模汤汤水水反正也没几个钱。
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半年左右也是少百十来毫升
7年的电池还可以，大半饱【在车库趴了3-4天】。
两辆车都没有测冷却液在车辆启动后达到工作温度时的电压，主要是一个人不好测也懒得找人帮忙，有科学探讨精神的可以试试。
延伸资讯移步这里：TESTING FOR CHEMICAL ELECTROLYSIS
Cooling System Electrolysis Corrosion
Testing For Electrolysis 【电势的产生及测试，来自LC Engineering】
4 Sept, 2016 Update:
全新的水和浓缩冷却液按1:1勾兑后用游泳池试纸测试的结果，是在8.4以上[这种试纸再高已经无法检测了】
因为使用的是游泳池试纸，所以精度和专业测试试纸可能会有偏差，但基本能反应大致的结果。
一下内容来自网络：
COOLANT CONDITION
The next thing to check is the condition of the coolant. The leading cause of radiator failure is corrosion due to lack of cooling system maintenance. The corrosion inhibitors in conventional antifreeze are gradually depleted over time, so the recommended coolant change interval has traditionally been every two years or 24,000 to 30,000 miles for preventive maintenance.
The new "extended service" antifreeze formulas that can go 5 years or 150,000 miles between changes reduce the need for cooling system maintenance and can reduce the risk of premature radiator failure. But some older vehicles still have antifreeze with conventional additives in their cooling systems. So when regular coolant checks and changes are neglected, the risk of corrosion rises sharply with each passing year.
Checking the pH of the coolant with chemically-treated test strips can help you determine the condition of the coolant. But be warned that today's coolants typically operate at lower reserve alkalinity (RA) levels than they used to. The alkalinity of a typical antifreeze/water mixture will vary depending on the additive package in the antifreeze and may vary from 8 to 14. The average used to be around 10.5, but some of the extended life coolants now maintain corrosion protection at a pH of only 8.3. Depending on the pH test strips used, it is possible to get a false indication of bad coolant. To get an accurate reading, therefore, you have to know what kind of coolant is in the system and use the appropriate test strips to check it.
WHICH TYPE OF ANTIFREEZE?
Unfortunately, identifying the type of coolant that is in the cooling system is not always easy. You can't go by color because it varies, Most conventional two-year antifreezes for north American domestic vehicles is dyed green. But Saturn and some European makers also use green dye for their extended life coolants. DEX-COOL extended life coolant, which is used in 1996 and newer GM vehicles, is dyed orange to distinguish it from ordinary antifreeze. If intermixed with other types of antifreeze, the color may or may not change depending on the dosage. GM warns that intermixing extended life coolant with ordinary coolant reduces the coolant's life to that of the ordinary coolant.
To add to the color confusion, some European and Korean coolants are dyed blue. Mercedes uses a yellow dye in its coolant. Toyota's new extended life coolant is dyed red. Intermix any of the above and its hard to tell what color the coolant may become.
The real difference between all these EG coolants is in the additive package. Traditional antifreeze formulas for domestic applications with aluminum radiators, cylinder heads or blocks contain a high level of silicates (which is not really needed in cast iron engines with copper/brass radiators). Silicates form a protective barrier on aluminum that protects the metal. The additives in European and Asian OEM antifreezes, however, contain less silicates and rely mostly on borates to inhibit corrosion. European antifreezes also contains no phosphates because hard water can react with phosphates to form calcium and magnesium sediments. The Asians use phosphates but no borates and low or no silicates because they say borates may actually add to the aluminum corrosion problem if the coolant is neglected.
The extended life coolants use an entirely different corrosion inhibiting chemistry that uses carboxylate organic acids instead of the silicates, phosphates or borates.
