22歲哈佛女 掌巴黎頂級麵包店
【聯合報／編譯朱邦賢／路透巴黎十三日電】 2006.11.14 03:04 am
芳齡廿二的阿波洛妮雅．普瓦蘭有兩個身分，一個是哈佛大學的學生，一個是法國最著名的傳統鄉村麵包店老闆。
二○○二年，普瓦蘭的父母不幸在直升機墜機事件中喪生，普瓦蘭克紹箕裘，繼承家業，順理成章成為普瓦蘭麵包店的女主人。
普瓦蘭麵包店是普瓦蘭的祖父皮耶在一九三二年開創的，如今在普瓦蘭掌理下，店裡共有員工一百五十人，年營業額高達一千四百萬歐元（約新台幣五億八千五百萬元）。設在巴黎的普瓦蘭麵包店每天大約烘烤七千個麵包，其中一部分每天由專人送往洛杉磯、東京等地。
因為普瓦蘭麵包店的主顧是勞勃狄尼洛、史蒂芬史匹柏、湯姆克魯斯等人，所以想找專人送麵包根本不是難事。紐約、蒙特婁或開普敦的大飯店和美食店紛紛搶購普瓦蘭每個四十六美元的麵包。
事實上在巴黎普瓦蘭麵包店，每個麵包只賣十美元。
普瓦蘭麵包店的成功之道再簡單不過，就是遵照古法烘焙。普瓦蘭三代以降，都遵照相同的傳統方法烘焙麵包。
普瓦蘭的父親李歐尼曾經和朋友─超現實主義藝術家達利─用麵糰製作一個鳥籠。李歐尼說，有朝一日鳥可能將籠子咬出一個洞而飛走。
普瓦蘭說：「這是一種真正的情感。其實天下的麵包都是一樣的，吃麵包可以滋養身體，但也可以滋養靈魂，因為麵包中你照樣可以有創意。」
普瓦蘭麵包店共有三間店面，兩間在巴黎，一間在倫敦。另外還有一間食品工廠在巴黎郊外。
對波伊蘭而言，如何將所有的知識傳給未來的繼承人，是她念茲在茲的大事。
目前在哈佛大學念經濟的普瓦蘭日子十分忙碌，每天除了得和員工、供應商以及客戶通電話外，就是忙功課。她希望今年能完成學業。
http://www.wretch.cc/blog/minami926&article_id=8597192
Born bread
Evening Standard (London), Jun 16, 2006 by TINA ISAAC
Apollonia Poilane returned to Paris from Boston a week ago, having just finished taking her third year exams at Harvard.
But while her classmates are fulfilling summer internships to bolster next year's job search, the 22-year-old economics student has come home to run the family business. She greets me in the anteroom of her grandfather's original bakery on rue du Cherche- Midi in the 6th arrondissement. From the ceiling hangs a chandelier made entirely from bread, a copy of one made by her father for the 100th anniversary of his close friend Salvador Dali's birth. The walls are lined with portraits of the loaf that now bears the family name; they are gifts from the many artists who lived in the neighbourhood when her grandfather founded the business in 1932.
'None of them is particularly famous,' she replies to what is obviously an all-too-frequent question. 'But they were well enough known in their day.'
Advertisement
The decor has been reproduced exactly in the shop on Elizabeth Street in Belgravia, which opened in 2000.
Petite, with big hazel eyes and a long, auburn plait reaching to the small of her back, Apollonia is soft-spoken but poised and articulate; her style is unadorned, save for dangly earrings and a tiny silver stud in the upper part of her right ear. Although she has known from a young age that she would eventually take over the family business, the post was thrust upon her prematurely and tragically when, on 31 October 2002, her father Lionel and her American-born mother Irena, a decorator and interior architect, perished in their private helicopter off the coast of Brittany, with her father at the controls. They were en route through thick fog to their second home, an 18th-century fort on Ile des Rimains, a tiny island a few hundred yards off the coast in the Bay of Cancale. Apollonia, then 18, stepped into her father's shoes immediately, something she reports matter-of-factly, refusing to be drawn further. Perhaps this is a form of self-protection; she has admitted in the past, 'I don't accept sympathy easily. What happened has happened and it's up to me to continue the Poilane dynasty, not to wallow in self-pity.' It has been said of Apollonia that flour runs through her veins.
She recently came across a picture of herself as an infant sleeping in a cradle which was, in fact, a converted bread basket. 'In my heart I always knew that I would take over the company and carry on the tradition,' she says. The conversation skips the faintest beat before she adds, 'My parents never pushed the decision if anything, they made a point not to.
My father always said that if you have a passion, you can always make your way in life so my younger sister and I were always encouraged to discover new things and follow a passion.' The man whose name became synonymous with bread was her grandfather Pierre Poilane, who left Normandy for Paris with the dream of becoming an interior decorator. To earn money, he turned to breadmaking, favouring the dense, chewy sourdough of his native region. By the time his son Lionel took over in the Seventies, the family had a second shop on the boulevard de Grenelle in the 15th arrondissement and had long enjoyed an international clientele (stars from Deneuve to De Niro are fans).
Lionel Poilane is credited with building the family name into the e15 million empire it is today. By creating a culture of 'retro innovation' combining the best of traditional know-how and modern methods he expanded production with a manufacture (the family does not use the word 'factory' since it has an industrial connotation) in Bievres, southwest of Paris, and fitted it with 24 wood-burning ovens in brick identical to the ones in the original shop. Like the loaves themselves, the building is round and fitted with bay windows so that the bakers and other workers can gaze out at nature.
The company averages 7,000 1.9kg (4lb) loaves of Poilane per day, 20 per cent of which are consumed abroad, in 40 countries from the US to Japan and, recently, South Africa a technical feat, notes Apollonia, since loaves must arrive no later than 48 hours after they are made.
'The quantities may sound industrial, but the process is artisanal,' she says, recalling a wealthy New Yorker's request that her father find a way to supply his heirs with Poilane once a week for the rest of their lives. Not included in those numbers are untold quantities of brioches, tartelettes pains au chocolat and sable biscuits that Apollonia's grandmother affectionately called 'Punitions' (punishments) that keep the queues forming year in, year out.
As a girl, Apollonia spent her time off from school learning how to make bread in the basement of the shop on rue du Cherche-Midi. She describes her grandfather as demanding but kind, and they had a special connection. She became fascinated with everything about breadmaking. 'In France, we say, "Le pain c'est la vie" and it's true,' she observes.
'Bread is not just wheat, leaven, salt and water; it is about language and culture, peace and revolution; its symbolism is central to literature and especially religion. For me, bread's relation to everyday life is what makes it thrilling.' This philosophical interest in the family business goes some way to explaining why she chose to study at Harvard. 'In the Americanstyle liberal arts education and at Harvard in particular other courses on foreign cultures, science and moral reasoning are part of the core curriculum so you can study the link between economics and everyday matters.' With the help of some of her father's friends, she has just completed his book Le pain par Poilane, published by Editions Le Cherche-Midi (an English translation is in the works); after three Poilane cookery books, this is a history of bread complete with recipes.
【聯合報／編譯朱邦賢／路透巴黎十三日電】 2006.11.14 03:04 am
芳齡廿二的阿波洛妮雅．普瓦蘭有兩個身分，一個是哈佛大學的學生，一個是法國最著名的傳統鄉村麵包店老闆。
二○○二年，普瓦蘭的父母不幸在直升機墜機事件中喪生，普瓦蘭克紹箕裘，繼承家業，順理成章成為普瓦蘭麵包店的女主人。
普瓦蘭麵包店是普瓦蘭的祖父皮耶在一九三二年開創的，如今在普瓦蘭掌理下，店裡共有員工一百五十人，年營業額高達一千四百萬歐元（約新台幣五億八千五百萬元）。設在巴黎的普瓦蘭麵包店每天大約烘烤七千個麵包，其中一部分每天由專人送往洛杉磯、東京等地。
因為普瓦蘭麵包店的主顧是勞勃狄尼洛、史蒂芬史匹柏、湯姆克魯斯等人，所以想找專人送麵包根本不是難事。紐約、蒙特婁或開普敦的大飯店和美食店紛紛搶購普瓦蘭每個四十六美元的麵包。
事實上在巴黎普瓦蘭麵包店，每個麵包只賣十美元。
普瓦蘭麵包店的成功之道再簡單不過，就是遵照古法烘焙。普瓦蘭三代以降，都遵照相同的傳統方法烘焙麵包。
普瓦蘭的父親李歐尼曾經和朋友─超現實主義藝術家達利─用麵糰製作一個鳥籠。李歐尼說，有朝一日鳥可能將籠子咬出一個洞而飛走。
普瓦蘭說：「這是一種真正的情感。其實天下的麵包都是一樣的，吃麵包可以滋養身體，但也可以滋養靈魂，因為麵包中你照樣可以有創意。」
普瓦蘭麵包店共有三間店面，兩間在巴黎，一間在倫敦。另外還有一間食品工廠在巴黎郊外。
對波伊蘭而言，如何將所有的知識傳給未來的繼承人，是她念茲在茲的大事。
目前在哈佛大學念經濟的普瓦蘭日子十分忙碌，每天除了得和員工、供應商以及客戶通電話外，就是忙功課。她希望今年能完成學業。
http://www.wretch.cc/blog/minami926&article_id=8597192
Born bread
Evening Standard (London), Jun 16, 2006 by TINA ISAAC
Apollonia Poilane returned to Paris from Boston a week ago, having just finished taking her third year exams at Harvard.
But while her classmates are fulfilling summer internships to bolster next year's job search, the 22-year-old economics student has come home to run the family business. She greets me in the anteroom of her grandfather's original bakery on rue du Cherche- Midi in the 6th arrondissement. From the ceiling hangs a chandelier made entirely from bread, a copy of one made by her father for the 100th anniversary of his close friend Salvador Dali's birth. The walls are lined with portraits of the loaf that now bears the family name; they are gifts from the many artists who lived in the neighbourhood when her grandfather founded the business in 1932.
'None of them is particularly famous,' she replies to what is obviously an all-too-frequent question. 'But they were well enough known in their day.'
Advertisement
The decor has been reproduced exactly in the shop on Elizabeth Street in Belgravia, which opened in 2000.
Petite, with big hazel eyes and a long, auburn plait reaching to the small of her back, Apollonia is soft-spoken but poised and articulate; her style is unadorned, save for dangly earrings and a tiny silver stud in the upper part of her right ear. Although she has known from a young age that she would eventually take over the family business, the post was thrust upon her prematurely and tragically when, on 31 October 2002, her father Lionel and her American-born mother Irena, a decorator and interior architect, perished in their private helicopter off the coast of Brittany, with her father at the controls. They were en route through thick fog to their second home, an 18th-century fort on Ile des Rimains, a tiny island a few hundred yards off the coast in the Bay of Cancale. Apollonia, then 18, stepped into her father's shoes immediately, something she reports matter-of-factly, refusing to be drawn further. Perhaps this is a form of self-protection; she has admitted in the past, 'I don't accept sympathy easily. What happened has happened and it's up to me to continue the Poilane dynasty, not to wallow in self-pity.' It has been said of Apollonia that flour runs through her veins.
She recently came across a picture of herself as an infant sleeping in a cradle which was, in fact, a converted bread basket. 'In my heart I always knew that I would take over the company and carry on the tradition,' she says. The conversation skips the faintest beat before she adds, 'My parents never pushed the decision if anything, they made a point not to.
My father always said that if you have a passion, you can always make your way in life so my younger sister and I were always encouraged to discover new things and follow a passion.' The man whose name became synonymous with bread was her grandfather Pierre Poilane, who left Normandy for Paris with the dream of becoming an interior decorator. To earn money, he turned to breadmaking, favouring the dense, chewy sourdough of his native region. By the time his son Lionel took over in the Seventies, the family had a second shop on the boulevard de Grenelle in the 15th arrondissement and had long enjoyed an international clientele (stars from Deneuve to De Niro are fans).
Lionel Poilane is credited with building the family name into the e15 million empire it is today. By creating a culture of 'retro innovation' combining the best of traditional know-how and modern methods he expanded production with a manufacture (the family does not use the word 'factory' since it has an industrial connotation) in Bievres, southwest of Paris, and fitted it with 24 wood-burning ovens in brick identical to the ones in the original shop. Like the loaves themselves, the building is round and fitted with bay windows so that the bakers and other workers can gaze out at nature.
The company averages 7,000 1.9kg (4lb) loaves of Poilane per day, 20 per cent of which are consumed abroad, in 40 countries from the US to Japan and, recently, South Africa a technical feat, notes Apollonia, since loaves must arrive no later than 48 hours after they are made.
'The quantities may sound industrial, but the process is artisanal,' she says, recalling a wealthy New Yorker's request that her father find a way to supply his heirs with Poilane once a week for the rest of their lives. Not included in those numbers are untold quantities of brioches, tartelettes pains au chocolat and sable biscuits that Apollonia's grandmother affectionately called 'Punitions' (punishments) that keep the queues forming year in, year out.
As a girl, Apollonia spent her time off from school learning how to make bread in the basement of the shop on rue du Cherche-Midi. She describes her grandfather as demanding but kind, and they had a special connection. She became fascinated with everything about breadmaking. 'In France, we say, "Le pain c'est la vie" and it's true,' she observes.
'Bread is not just wheat, leaven, salt and water; it is about language and culture, peace and revolution; its symbolism is central to literature and especially religion. For me, bread's relation to everyday life is what makes it thrilling.' This philosophical interest in the family business goes some way to explaining why she chose to study at Harvard. 'In the Americanstyle liberal arts education and at Harvard in particular other courses on foreign cultures, science and moral reasoning are part of the core curriculum so you can study the link between economics and everyday matters.' With the help of some of her father's friends, she has just completed his book Le pain par Poilane, published by Editions Le Cherche-Midi (an English translation is in the works); after three Poilane cookery books, this is a history of bread complete with recipes.
选择“Disable on www.wenxuecity.com”
选择“don't run on pages on this domain”
